I wrote a post a long time ago about the topcoats I used and it’s been hanging out in the painting section on my side bar ever since. A reader sent me an e-mail a couple of months ago asking me to update it. I went back and read the post and she was right! I hardly use any of the products anymore. The main reason for that is soft wax. I started using wax and I didn’t need to use other topcoats. I occasionally use something else, but wax has stolen my furniture-refinishing heart.
Here’s a breakdown of the topcoats I use now and how I feel about the ones I used to use…
Soft Wax –
How it’s applied: Apply the wax in a thin coat with a wax brush, bushy paint brush or soft cloth. Work it into the surface until the wax is absorbed. Allow it to dry for about five minutes and then buff it with a soft, clean cloth. Apply additional coats for even more durability and shine.
What I like it for: Natural wood, porous painted surfaces (Milk Paint, Chalk Paint, flat latex, flat acrylic, etc.), especially when I want a soft luster to the finish, not a shine. I also like that it provides a super smooth, hard finish and no brush strokes.
What I don’t like it for: I wouldn’t use it on a piece that has an existing intact finish and I don’t like it over non-porous surfaces like satin/semigloss paints. It just sits on top of the surface instead of getting absorbed.
Pieces I used it on: Almost everything! I used it on my dining table, kitchen table, all of the dressers I’ve done over the last year at least…
(Lest I look like I’m totally self-promoting, there are other great soft waxes out there. Mine, of course, is my favorite, but I also like Annie Sloan’s Soft Wax and Fiddes & Sons. Some others I’ve used that are okay, but very stinky, are Briwax and Mylands. Use whatever you like.)
Hemp Oil –
How it’s applied: Just wipe it on with a soft cloth. It’s one of the easiest topcoats out there to apply.
What I like it for: It’s an all-natural, food-safe product, so I like that. I mainly use it for raw, thirsty and tired wood, but I also like it over porous paint (Milk Paint, Chalk Paint, flat latex, flat acrylic, etc.)
What I don’t like it for: Pieces with a non-porous finish. Again, it just sits on top and doesn’t work as well.
Creative Uses: It can be used to revive wood and even cast iron.
Pieces I used it on: My t-shirt counter…
… and a Milk Paint hutch I did for my mom (in a custom blue.)
Paste Wax –
How it’s applied: Wax on, wax off. Rub the wax on with a soft/clean cloth. Allow it to dry to a haze and then buff it off.
What I like it for: Natural wood, painted surfaces, especially when I want a soft luster to the finish, not a shine. I also like that it provides a hard finish and no brush strokes.
What I don’t like it for: Pieces with a lot of texture or detail. The wax gets clumped in the details and it’s a mess and a pain to get out. I stick with smooth pieces.
Creative Uses: Dark Wax is a wonderful way to antique and provide protection all in one step.
One piece I used it on: My old dining room table top.
Why I don’t use it any more: Paste wax is a lot thicker and harder to work with than soft wax. It’s sort of like the difference between chap stick and lip gloss. Paste wax is a lot cheaper, but soft wax is so much easier to work with.
Polycrylic –
How it’s applied: This can be brushed or sprayed. It’s water based, so it’s easy to wash out of brushes and equipment.
What I like it for: I use this most on chippy pieces that need to be sealed. I can slather it on with a brush and it provides a hard, satin finish that protects my family from lead paint. I also use my paint sprayer to apply this to painted furniture when I want a clean finish that isn’t distressed.
What I don’t like it for: Natural wood or pieces where the brush strokes are going to show. This product leaves a lot of brush strokes, so I prefer to use it on pieces with texture (like chipping paint) or apply it with a sprayer. Also, it does dry clear in most cases, but it can slightly yellow some whites or change the color of some paints. You may want to test it on a small area before applying it to the entire piece.
Creative Uses: You can mix paint with it and use it as a glaze or extender.
One piece I used it on: My traditional hand painted dresser.
Why I don’t use it anymore: I always used the polycrylic as a topcoat over satin latex. I’ve since learned that you don’t need a topcoat over satin latex. That finish is hard enough on it’s own once cured. If I did use it, I would only use it in a sprayer.
Wipe-On Poly –
How it’s applied: Wipe it on with a clean, soft cloth. Lightly sand with a fine sand paper or steel wool between coats.
What I like it for: Natural wood and dark painted pieces.
What I don’t like it for: Light painted pieces, because this product will really yellow paint.
One piece I used it on: The top of my vanity.
Why I don’t use it anymore: Again, wax has bumped this one aside. I found that I never got a buttery smooth finish with the Wipe-On Poly, but I still think it’s a good easy-to-use product. I just prefer wax.
Spray Polyurethane –
How it’s applied: Self-explanatory, I think! Remember to use long, even strokes and hold the paint can an even distance from the piece you’re painting. It’s better to apply several thin coats, instead of one thick (and drippy) one.
What I like it for: Sealing rusty metal pieces or finishing smaller pieces like accessories, chandeliers, etc.
What I don’t like it for: Furniture (just a personal preference) and light painted pieces (again this product yellows.)
One piece I used it on: A rusty chicken feeder.
Why I don’t use this product anymore: Actually, I do! I still use it exactly the way I did a couple of years ago, but I never, ever, EVER use it on furniture. Never.
Thanks for the update! Amazing the transformation WE go through in our journey! I’ve got a fab buffet that I used polycrylic on before I discovered wax. It’s full of brush strokes and I hate it. Haven’t figured out how to remedy it without completely stripping and redoing. UGH! Oh, the lessons we learn!
I am with you–I have fallen in love with soft wax and it is what I primarily use. The finish is beautiful. It can be some work–I keep wondering why I don’t have the greatest looking arms around ;).
Yay! I love this! I was the one who asked for the update and I’m so glad you did this! Thank you thank you!
LOVE the hutch you did for your mom! I learned a few new things (again) from you and this post!
I’m trying new things this week & am adding hemp oil to the list. Thank you for breaking this down into an easy to read guide.
Great update! Tell mom her blue & white items on top of the cabinet are Gorgeous!!!!
Thanks so much for the info..you answered a lot of questions for me 🙂
Thanks, Marian, for your time in updating this post. I don’t know how you get it all done!
Thanks for the update! It answered a lot of my questions. What topcoat would you use on a (not so very chippy) chair painted with milk paint? It’s going to be used a lot by the children. I wonder if (several coats of) the wax would be enough. I was thinking about polycrylic, but I guess even a matte polycrylic would make the paint glossier than I want.
I have some pieces that I want to put polycrylic on but I don’t want brushstrokes. What kind of sprayer is recommended for spraying on polycrylic? (Obviously I am a novice at this!). I once tried to spray on a white satin enamel paint onto a bedroom set and it clogged and generally did not work. I ended up abandoning the sprayer completely. I suspect that it may have been my sprayer at fault but never learned what the problem was.
Thanks
Really great information! Thank you
I would love to know how you wipe off your dinner table after meals if it has a wax top. I have never understood how this is done. The wax isn’t waterproof so wouldn’t it be difficult to wipe with a wet rag?
Wax actually is water resistant. Water will bead up on it. I just wipe it with a wet sponge and use a little cleaner if needed. That works fine. When the finish starts to look tired, I just reapply the wax.
thanks for this awesome list. It will be a great reference. I am never quite sure what to use as a top coat. Is your milk paint and wax sold at retailers or just online?
Ruth
Can I use your hemp oil on soapstone? I use mineral oil now, but like the idea of a natural oil that is not petroleum based.
I applied wipe-on-poly to a piece of bare walnut wood that I used to construct a wooden counter on a kitchen built in hutch (had never been finished)….can I now apply soft wax over it? It’s NOT shiny at all right now, but I think the wax WOULD give it a nice glow.
Horray! The answer I need. I painted my dining chairs with white semi-gloss paint, “protected” them with a wipe-on wax and they are slowly chipping in tiny spots. I will clean them and use Minwax Poly. Thanks for saving the day (and the chairs)!
I hope you meant Minwax Polycrylic and not Wipe-on Poly! Wipe-on Poly will yellow your white chairs (like she said above).
Thank you so much for the update!! I still struggle with what to use as my top coats. I use Annie Sloan’s clear wax but I always feel like it’s such a work out for my hand and arm. Your wax looks a bit softer so I need to get my hands on some and try it out!!!
You are such a wealth of knowledge! I love that we can all learn from your experience (without having to experiment with each product as MUCH by ourselves!)
I am finishing a secretary that I painted the exterior with AS Pure White Chalk Paint and the interior with AS Graphite Chalk Paint. Soft wax went on the white with no problem. However I struggled applying the wax to the graphite. I switched my plan and used your Hemp Oil on the graphite. Application was super easy! One problem though:( Some of the oil dripped onto a few areas of the white chalk paint/wax surface. HELP!? Do you have any ideas how to remove the discoloration from the oil??? I would greatly appreciate any advice you have to offer!
This is definitely a useful post, well written and clear. Very helpful, Marian!
Nicole
I have saved this post in my favorites section to refer to. I think I may have to buy your mineral oil to use on my husbands boyhood dresser. Solid wood– really a great old, quality piece that I never knew quite what to use on it to liven it up again. Thanks for all the tips!
That would be your HEMP oil!
Thanks for the update.
Let’s see more of your mom’s house!
This post has been so informative and helpful to me. Most of the time I feel overwhelmed by finishing products and their uses. You have broken it down so well and spelled everything out so clearly, it makes me feel like I have a good handle on these things now. Thank you! Sure wish we had a Miss Mustard Seed retailer here where I live. 🙂
WOW….very timely post as I try to figure out how to finish my gray barnwood coffee table top to preserve the perfect patina. Wasn’t going to sand as I don’t want to remove gray or the cool saw marks. Yet there will be rough spots and splinters that I want to smooth out. Have you ever used lacquer? Read that it doesn’t yellow, but will it build up enough to be sort of smooth? Any advice would be welcome. Wonderful post…
Thank you for the very helpful information! I am curious to know what type of wood the tops of your dining room table and vanity are made of? I have an unfinished heart pine hutch that I would like to age, would the dark wax be good for this?
Thank you again!
Thank you for this information. So informative and eliminated the need to email you a question about wax today:). But i do still have a question; i am getting ready to redo the top of my old french provencial dining table because the top is a wreck – what stripping product do you recommend? then would you stain it or just wax the top? I love the look of your table top and want something similar.
thank you,
susan
Thanks for this post. I’m just in the process of painting my first piece with MMS Flow Blue (without the bonding agent) and have an amazing chippy piece. I’m wondering – will the soft wax prevent the paint from continuing to chip further?
so I’ve got a question for you. I want to paint at least my top cabinets white. What would you use to seal them (I’l leaning towards using ASCP for ease of pinting without prep).
Hi, Thanks for sharing this! I’m also saving your post for reference when I need to decide on a finish. Very informative!
Where did you get the rug under your dining room table? I love it and have never seen anything like it in that size.
I have to say, I’m a poly girl. I’ve just started using Annie Sloan’s tinted wax. I’m in love! I really want to try your soft wax. It looks amazing!
Wow! This is very helpful, thanks so much!
this is fantastic. love the simple breakdown of each top coat. thanks!
Great tips! Congrats to the lucky winners
Thank you for the update. I am preparing to paint several pieces of furniture to create my craft area and now feel more confident about the project.
I do have a question for you. Why milk paint and not chalk paint?? Seems like everyone is crazy for the ASCP.
Also what is the best paint to use on laminated wood….those cheap bookcases from walmart/target?
Thank you in advance.
quick note…that daubing brush in the first photo…a girlfriend who handles a lot of antiques told me it was a clothes brush. I believe I’ve told you I thought it was a stenciling brush but I’m wrong. Girlfriend gave me a clothes brush with a little ship on top and I called her to say “thank you” (yes, I also sent a note,,,grin) and that started our conversation re. antique/vintage clothes brushes.
So many choices! 🙂 I’m painting my kitchen cabinets with ASCP right now, and I’m really struggling with the AS soft wax. I haven’t applied it to the cabinets yet, but have tried it on some other small things, and oh my… it is SO much work. Would your hemp oil be a good (easier) alternative? I’m using Old White and Duck Egg. Would the Hemp Oil discolor the Old White? Thanks!
Thank you, thank you! This is certainly my new go-to reference. One question for you, do you buff the soft wax (especially the dark wax) until your cloth comes off clean? The reason I ask is that I did my kitchen table with AS dark wax over a year ago and sometimes that wax still rubs off. What did I do wrong? Thanks!
what about glaze? thoughts on that?
Thank you for the excellent post. Love the soft wax because the finish would come out nicely without harsh effect. This is definitely my reference whenever I am ready to do a project.
Hi Marian- Have loved following you on your blog AND learned a great deal. Question- I have an anitque front door (under a porch with minimal sun in the afternoon.) that needs some protection. Nothing has been done to it for about 9 years and looks like any top coat put on it is pretty much gone. Think it may have had a water base poly only but not sure. any thoughts if I want to keep the antigue look-not hard shiny look. it is on a lake house so like the more rustic affect. Is hemp oil a good option? would appreciate your thoughts. Sandy
Thanks for this post Marian – it’s fun to know what you like and use and don’t like and don’t use!
Love the soft wax..I have used on painted furniture…it gave amazing results. Thanks for all the other products you have mentioned< I think I know the one I like the most.
Marian, I wish I had read this a year ago. I painted a piece of wood furniture but didn’t add anything to protect the surface. Now it has numerous scuff marks from objects being placed on the surface. Do you think I would have to repaint the whole thing or might there being something I cold do to buff out the scuff marks?
Thank you again for your full explanations. They are very helpful!
Lynn
Thanks for the new info. I am looking forward to a video on how to use your wax. I am used to Annie Sloan wax and I think I may have used too much of your wax on a chalk painted piece.
It didn’t seem to buff out the way I thought it would.
What a thoroughly practical and helpful post. I’ve never been clear on finishes and now I feel I can choose with confidence. Thank you so much. Triciax
Am curious about something…. while I love the look of a rubbed wax finish, how do you get the wax OFF if you ever want to refinish the piece in a different way? I have never found a way to remove paste/soft wax from furniture and sanding doesn’t seem adequate. Any suggestions from anyone?
I have yet to make the jump to soft wax– would like to give it a try–hopefully soon. In the mean time, I have put black spray paint on my dining room chairs, so I feel that they will rub off on people when they sit on them, but for the same reason I didn’t want to tackle all the rungs with a paint brush, I thought I would use a spray on poly. Is there something better in your opinion?
Thanks for this! I have recently started painting a few pieces and was wondering what were good finishes to use and also easy to use. Will definitely be referring back to this! Now I need to locate a place somewhat close by to get some soft wax 🙂
Can you use both hemp oil and paste wax over milk paint that is chippy? Will the finish be pretty durable with either? Is one better?
Very, very interesting post! I’m drawn to hemp oil as it’s natural and a product that used to be produced in the area where I live. I’m wondering though, when you use it on paint, does it change the original colour?
It doesn’t change the color, but makes it look richer, if that makes sense…
We just sanded and milk painted the kitchen cabinets in our apartment. They look so much better! My question is, would hemp oil be okay to seal these? Or soft wax? We used grain sack. ..will using hemp oil or poly turn it yellow?
We just bought a house that has beautiful paneling in the basement…would you recommend Hemp Oil for that? It’s 44 years old and I’m sure has never had anything done to it. Thanks for the update on the finishes you use… it helps to know a bit about all the different products out there!
Where can I purchase dark wax.? We refinished an antique vanity in white and would like to use dark wax on it. I live in a small central Texas town and either I dont know what I am looking for (probably the case ) or my local retailers don’t carry it. Love your blog. Thanks. Jan
Hi great summary. Thanks! One question, so soft wax on dark stain works too in terms of finishing? Totally love hemp oil and soft wax on the painted surfaces but still a bit stymied as to whether they work on the stripped and stained table tops. I used dark soft wax on one dresser and it gave a nice matt finish, very uniform. On another set tables it looks greasy. I’m wondering if it depends on the wood and what it was treated with before stripping.
Yes, it does depend on the grain and hardness of the wood. I prefer to use a stain and then wax, instead of a dark wax. The key to getting a uniform matte finish is applying a thin coat and buffing it well. It can also show smudging, etc. on darker stains.
I just used your milk paint for the first time, and LOVED it!! My piece came out awesome except for one minor problem. I redid an old antique desk, and after two coats of milk paint then applying your wax I realized the last drawer I painted is slightly lighter than the rest of the piece (I was almost out of the milk paint I mixed, and I guess I didn’t give the last drawer a proper second coat). I am going to repaint the drawer again, but can I do that since the wax is already on? Do I need to try and remove the wax first? Thanks!!
Such a great post!!! I am the one that put wax over satin/semi gloss paint and it does just sit on the top-I love the color, but do I have to sand down again or is there something you can suggest without ruining the paint? Thanks, Jackie
Thank you for this post, Miss Mustard. Wonderful round-up.
Question: when I use soft wax (or paste wax) on large surface areas, inevitably I end up with an uneven finish in terms of shine. I feel like wax is great on smaller surfacs: furniture frames, painted knobs, whathaveyou. But when I start waxing, say, painted tabletops, larger painted cabinet/hutch doors, etc., I end up with some areas that look shinier/duller than others. Regardless of amount of application, number of coats, amount of buffing, I have this issue.
I love the type of finish wax gives, moreso than a wipe-on poly or Polycrilic, but I don’t like the inconsistency on larger areas. Any suggestions?
HI! Just found your blog–love your paints, love your info! In this post you show a picture of a green dresser-is that one of your paints? Can you tell me the color?
We are redoing a bathroom, we are making a chest into the sink. I wanted to paint it and then seal the top since the sink bowl will be added in. Will Milk paint be okay for this? What do you recommend sealing the top with so it doesn’t get damaged by water? Also, will the Milk paint work on a non-wood surface? We bought the piece at Homegoods and we don’t think it is actually wood???
Does the hemp oil yellow paint at all? I know that milk and chalk paint cane sometimes be used outside — do you think wax, hemp oil, or water based poly would be the solution for a topcoat on chalk or milk painted Adirondack chairs?
I have used your milk paint and antiquing wax on a chair. I would like to go back and add another color to this piece. . Will the new paint adhere since the wax has already been applied? Thank you!
What would you recommend using as a top coat for stools that will get a lot of use in our kitchen? We will be sitting directly on the painted surface. Thank you!
I forgot to mention that they have been painted with MMS milk paint. Thank you!
Thanks for the great post on finishes. It’s illuminating to a learner like me and I appreciate you experience and expertise.
I haven’t been able to find on your site any place to buy wax or oil. Do you sell your own products? Are they hidden for some reason? Where would one purchase them? Thanks.
I know this is an older post and this may not get answered, but what are your thoughts on Tung Oil?
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Hey! I just got the Mustard Seed Yellow milk paint, and want to paint… kitchen cabinets with it!
The store I bought it from had different finishes showed on a few cute pieces, and MMS Wax seemed smoothest. After I got it, I read wax may not be the best finish for the kitchen, tho. The cabinets will need to be wiped. Any suggestions on what to seal the paint with?
Can I use wax, and put Polycrylic on top? If I just use Policrylic finish, will I get the color depth that come with wax?
Thanks!
Marty,
Did you ever get an answer to the question about putting poly over wax? I have the same question.
Thank you!
What about combining wax and polycrylic? I have a lot of clients who love the wax finish for high-traffic items like dining tables and desktops. They like the look but are not comfortable with just a wax finish. So is it possible to wax a surface and then cover it with a coat of poly??? I’ve searched the net and read this post a million times but I am still unsure as to combining wax and poly.
Awesome post! I was just wondering what would be the best finish if I want a high gloss finish over my milk paint?
I would suggest using a glossy polyurethane product, if that’s the look you’re going for.
Hi,
I am all set to chalk paint my coffee table, except for a slight supply problem – I thought I had some polyacrylic spray but now that I look, it’s actually Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer. Can I use this?
I am looking to refinish a dresser to use as a bathroom vanity. What do you recommend as a sealer, considering I have 2 little boys that are not water conscious after washing hands! I am guessing that wax won’t be enough.
Thanks!
Have you ever tried to wax a piece of aluminum? One that is serving as a tabletop? I currently in the redo process of a table with an aluminum top and can’t figure out what to use on it to get some of the metal shine out.
I have a dresser that i have painted with 3 coats of latex furniture paint (namely a white primer, yellow base and turquoise top coat). I have sanded down the edges and a few spots here and there to give it a well loved old shabby chic look. From afar it is outstanding. But from up close, the sandpaper marks have dulled the paint (even though i softly sanded using 220 grit) around the area where i aged the piece. I am now very unsure on how to proceed as the rest of the furniture is sort of melamine shiny… Should i sand down the whole piece lightly then wax it? Or show i add a coat of clear poly? Any advice would be appreciated.
we have recently been working on finishing a decorative table top. We have the top of the table stained and put a coat of polyurethane on it but we didn’t like the way the poly turned out , it looked a little streaky. So we sanded off most of the polyurethane and were thinking of using a white wax finish on the stain instead to give it a slightly washed looked. Does the wax work over the stain and if there is still some polyurethane left on the table will the was still stick and look like a nice finish?
What a great post. Your format is so useful = why i like it; don’t like it; don’t use it. Very helpful
Thank you.
Love this — especially the tip for the chicken feeder turned plate rack! 😉
how could I antique a gloss new mirror to match my annie/miss mustard seed paint&wax……I can’t can I :>{
How do you go about the challenge of a poly coat of wax on a light finished piece of furniture, after it’s turned it yellow? Please God tell me I don’t have to start all over repainting this chest that now looks yellow after I painted it with the antique white milk paint? I wish I had seen this post earlier before I did it! Beginner and Im learning as I go!
Hi Miss Mustard Seed…I’m new to viewing your site and I was looking for an answer to this question. Maybe you can help me. I am super new to refinishing furniture and recently did an old kitchen table in a chalk paint. Well I hated it. So I repainted it with a satin enamel paint. Well I hate that too. I bought some Annie Sloan chalk paint and was going to paint over top of those 2 coats of different paint. Will it work?? I plan on using the wax also. Will that be ok?
Also, I sealed the stained wood too with polycrylic-someone told me to- and like you mentioned above I don’t like the brush strokes and it’s not shiny. I do have some protex by fiddes..can I use that on top of the polycrylic??
Thank you and sorry for the novel I jus wrote?
Not sure if this thread is still open? Your dining table looks lovely. What steps did you take to achieve that look?