In part one, you saw the inspiration and progress for the laundry room makeover. In part two, you saw the reveal. Now, it’s time to get into the nitty gritty details of the tools and products I used.
First of all, the kind of bead board I used was a thin, tongue and groove plank bead board from Home Depot. It’s double-beaded, solid wood bead board by Pine Ridge. I wasn’t able to find it on the Home Depot website, but I found it in the wood paneling section. It comes in 8′ lengths and a shorter length for chair-rail height installation.
As you can see, it has grooves on the back, which makes it easier to do “rip cuts” (cuts lengthwise), when needed. Because it’s thin, I found it easy to work with (cut, fit around light switches, etc.) and I was able to sit it right on top of my baseboards, which was a huge time-saver! It’s also not as expensive as typical bead board planking, since it’s thinner. I spent about $280 on bead board for the entire room, which was less than wallpaper or sticky-back wood products or many other wall-coverings I researched.
For under the cabinets, I used THESE CORBELS from Home Depot. (I attached them with the same nails/nailer I used for the bead board, mentioned below.)
As far as the tools I used, I used our miter/chop saw the most. (THIS is the updated version of the Bosch double bevel compound miter saw we own.) This was to cut the pieces to size. You could use a hand saw if you don’t have a miter saw. It will take so much longer, though! I will say that I am not one of those girls who is super comfortable with beefy power tools, especially saws. I am pretty comfortable with the miter saw, though, so it’s a good place to start if you are new to power tools.
I used a DeWalt finishing nailer (with 1 1/4″ nails) to attached the bead board and trim to the walls. Again, you could use a hammer and brad nails, but you will be renting or buying a finishing nailer halfway through the project! This is our second DeWalt nailer (we had and heavily used the first one for 11 years) and it’s a great tool if you’re doing a lot of trim work in your house.
We sold our table saw when we moved and I do not like using the circular saw if I can avoid it, so I used the Dremel Multi-Max and Saw Max for my rip cuts and detailed cuts around light switches, outlets, cabinets, door frames, etc.
The Multi Max was good for very fine cuts or tight angles…
…and the Saw Max was good for longer cuts that didn’t require as much precision. It’s basically a small handheld circular saw, but it’s nowhere near as intimidating. And, again, since the bead board planks were thin, I could easily use smaller tools like these.
When installing bead board, a level is your friend. A stud-finder is also your friend. Before applying the planking to each wall, I used the stud-finder to locate the studs and marked them with a pencil. With the studs marked, I could make sure I was nailing the planks into wood instead of just drywall.
I also used the level to check the first piece of each row, so the horizontal and vertical lines would be level and plumb.
And caulk is your friend. It can cover all sorts of unsightly gaps and seams that don’t line up perfectly and cuts that aren’t spot on. I filled the gaps that were distracting, but didn’t want to fill too much. A part of the charm of bead board is texture it brings, so I didn’t want it to be completely seamless.
As far as the priming and painting, I used Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Primer for all of the bead board, doors, and trim.
For the laminate cabinets, I used a specialty bonding primer for slick surfaces called STIX.
So far, the Stix is working well on the laminate, but only time will tell how durable it is. I will definitely do an update in a few weeks and months. I did notice that once I painted over the Stix primer, the drying process was slower. I have to give it overnight to really let it dry hard. Before that, it felt a little tacky to the touch.
I wanted all of the painted surfaces to be smooth, so I used a Micro-Plush roller cover. (4.5″ for the cabinets and doors and 6.5″ for the walls) to apply the primers and paint. It has just enough nap to get the paint inside most of the beaded detail, but it doesn’t leave any roller marks.
For the paint, I used Benjamin Moore’s Advanced in a Satin Finish. Both colors are custom mixes, but here are the recipes…
“Boxwood” is the green used on the cabinets…
And here is the white I used for the trim and walls…
It’s almost bright white, but not quite as stark.
All of the doors are painted in Coventry Gray by Benjamin Moore, also in Advanced in the Satin finish.
I hope that answers all of the questions about the products I used, but let me know if I missed anything! In the next laundry room post, I’ll share sources on the decor and details on the organization.
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