One of the best things about traveling with a local guide is that you get to see the non-touristy places. And, if you’re lucky, you might get a personal invitation to one of the best places in the city. After touring Siena on our own, with some direction from Carolyn, our guide, our group met at the famous fountain in Siena’s shell-shaped piazza to go to Paola’s house for tea. Paola is one of Carolyn’s Italian friends and a local “fixer” for her group tours. She makes introductions and arranges experiences that are easier for a local than a foreigner. She married a man whose family lived in Siena for many generations (in the owl contrada), so Siena is now her home. If I remember correctly, her husband’s father or grandfather was an artist, and he converted the turret on the building owned by his family into a studio.
Paola and her husband designed their entire apartment around access to this former studio, and this is where we had tea. Of course, I could imagine this being an amazing studio. The light was so beautiful, and you could step outside on the terrace anytime you needed some fresh inspiration.
Paola’s daughter made a chocolate torte, and Paola brought in traditional Siena desserts from a local bakery for us to enjoy. She told us about Siena, the history of the building, and her husband’s family.
In our family, we pass down sepia-toned photographs. In their family, they pass down life-sized oil portraits in gilded frames.
As amazing as the studio space is, the terrace was the real highlight. You could look out over the narrow streets of Siena, getting an entirely different perspective on the city.
Paola said they lived out here during the pandemic when the entire city was locked down.
She pointed out that this was the only turret in the city with large windows added. There is only one other turret, but it is almost completely walled in.
From the Terrace, you could see for miles in almost all directions. Not only could you look over the terracotta roofs to see the spires, towers, duomo, and cathedral, but you could also see the distant fields and hills.
Taking in the ancient city and the country’s beauty was truly awe-inspiring. It felt like such a gift to be able to see the city in a way that few others do.
After tea, we made the long trek back to the parking lot where the bus was scheduled to pick us up. We walked through the old part of the city to reach the square, but we took a circuitous route back that wasn’t as scenic but was less hilly and easier for my mom to walk. That was especially nice given that we were still schlepping around the nine linen shirts, tunics, and dresses I had purchased that morning at the market. (You can read about that HERE.)
Since my Italy posts have been spread out over several months, you can find them all linked below…
Plein Air Painting in Italy & Podere Tour
Dinner in a Castle | Tuscany Creative Retreat
6 Responses
Such wonderful photos!!
What a real treat to have tea in a studio and enjoy desserts and a patio overlooking the city! Sounds like a dream come true! I have enjoyed all your stories of the things you did while you were there! Thank you so much for sharing!
MMS,
Your hospitality in Sienna was remarkable. The private viewing from an ancestral apartment, a tea of Italian delicacies, and stories to captivate, will surely remain poignant memories. Thank you for the pictorial which brought back my own memories.
Hugs, Diney
Looks like you had a wonderful view of the city and a really great time. Was the cost of this soiree included in your tour or did you have to pay extra ? ?
Thank you for sharing these amazing photos. What a beautiful apartment. The desserts look delicious, and the blue and white plates caught my eye. The view from the apartment is incredible. Italy looks like an amazing country to visit.
Beautiful photos, Marian. Your artistry shows!! Such gorgeous colors!