120 Comments

1. 

   Debbiedoo's blogging and blabbing on March 30, 2011 at 5:22 am

   Excellanta! Thanks so much. I was really anxious to learn about your technique and will try it next time around!

2. 

   Connie @ Sensible-Redesign on March 30, 2011 at 5:31 am

   Hey great Tutorial. Really liked seeing how you put on the wax. I have never tried using a brush. I am also wondering if you have trouble with things like lamps or accesories leaving marks in the wax after it is done and in the room? Could you print out the name of the green can wax please? I would like to try it. I have used Liberon Fine Paste wax in Neutral and Dark Oak. Is also rather pricey but you can find it at Rocker or Woodcrafters if you have one of those stores handy. Look forward to all of your posts I can always learn so much. (happy face here) Thank you, Connie

3. 

   Donna Frasca ♋ on March 30, 2011 at 5:40 am

   Amazing! I would never attempt something like that so kudos to you! By the way, the color is awesome.

4. 

   Aaron on March 30, 2011 at 5:46 am

   Thank you so much for sharing…my computer does not like you video. 🙁 Every time you get ready to show us the last wax {the one after the Annie Sloan wax} my computer freezes up. Could you or somebody reading this please tell me the name of that wax?

   Thank you so much!

   -Aaron {the girl with the boy's name}

   http://www.mudpiesandmarigolds.blogspot.com

5. 

   A Thrifted Market on March 30, 2011 at 6:00 am

   Thank you Marianne for the information..you are such a wealth of knowledge!

6. 

   lavendergardencottage.blogspot.com on March 30, 2011 at 6:04 am

   Thank you for the post! I love that look and now I am inspired to go fore and try it!

7. 

   Carol on March 30, 2011 at 6:14 am

   Thanks again for sharing your skills with us and all of your product information. You make it so easy for the newbies in the group ♥♥♥♥♥

8. 

   Cherie on March 30, 2011 at 6:14 am

   Great post. I have tried a couple of pieces with wax so far, i like it. I have been using johnson paste wax and seems to vary in drying times. I usually leave it over night.
   Thanks for the tips on Krud Kutter. I have been using mineral spirits and it doesnt do that great of a job cleaning my brushes with oil based stains. Which Krud Kutter are you using? The Degreaser or Original?

9. 

   Auntie Bliss on March 30, 2011 at 6:21 am

   Oh so many brands! And here I've been using
   *TURTLE WAX* yes, the kind for cars LOL!!! It stinks.
   I need to get out more….well on t.v. I've heard people using lime wax…but nobody in stores knows what I'm talking about. Have you heard of it?
   Thanks for the video 🙂

10. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 6:23 am

    Hi thanks for sharing all of your tutorials with us! Could you tell me a good paint to use or your favorite brand of paint and color, looking for vintage looking whites and soft greys. I will be redoing my living room here soon and will be painting quite a few pieces of furniture and walls.
    Thanks!!

11. 

    molly susan strong on March 30, 2011 at 6:37 am

    Marion you know I have used them all too in my too many years of deco painting. I just blogged about a new technique that beats all I have tried. Pop over and see. You may want to give it a try. I was always a Briwax faithful but this new technique is awesome.

12. 

    Maddie Kertay- The Domestic Anarchist on March 30, 2011 at 6:44 am

    Thank you so much for taking the time to make the video… I know that in reality is takes way more than just the on camera time!

    Love the waxes. My son does woodworking and in those catalogs and locally at Woodcrafters they have all sorts of waxes to try out but I did order some with my Chalk Paint (still back ordered) Soon as it gets here I have an old pie safe that is begging for a makeover.. I am so excited!

    Maddie

13. 

    molly susan strong on March 30, 2011 at 6:49 am

    Oh and you can melt the paste waxes for an easier application as well! (Not on the stove but set the tin in a bowl of hot water to soften. )

14. 

    ana rebelo on March 30, 2011 at 7:10 am

    Hello, I'm from Portugal and I love you work, sorry my english is not very good, I have a blog too and paint furnitue too, kisses and regards form Portugal
    http://www.dovelhofaznovo.blogspot.com

15. 

    Amanda on March 30, 2011 at 7:10 am

    1st off you are just too stinking cute!!! LOL.
    I am adding this video to my bookmarks for when I do my next furniture piece. I've tried waxes once and it kinda freaked me out-I felt like i was either putting on too much or too little. Im sure it just takes practice.
    As for the chalk paint-I had bought Annie Sloans book several months ago and kept thinking I should try her paint-then you started using it and i was like "well if its good enough for Miss Mustard Seed" im gonna try it!!

16. 

    Susan Wymola on March 30, 2011 at 7:18 am

    Now I feel normal about wearing clothes with paint on them to the store. I also love the way you just jump right in and try things and not be afraid.
    The video is very helpful in many ways, and You are so down to earth and FUN! Thank you for all your hard work and especially for sharing.
    I have always loved the wax finish on pieces, and I love using these techniques.

17. 

    maggie on March 30, 2011 at 7:26 am

    Thanks much for all the info! I have a couple of pieces crying out to be waxed. (All that whining furniture is soooo annoying!) 🙂

18. 

    Tyla on March 30, 2011 at 7:29 am

    Thanks so much for the info. I'm completely new to the world of painting furniture. I heard you mention "buffing". Do you just use an old rag? Also, is buffing your final step? Thanks again so very, very much. Have a blessed day!

19. 

    anne on March 30, 2011 at 7:38 am

    What a great video with lots of info. Do you find that a waxed finish protects a piece well?

20. 

    Korrie@RedHenHome on March 30, 2011 at 7:50 am

    Thanks for the great tips. I am excited to try wax, as I am not always crazy about the plasticky look I get from polyacrylic or polyurethane (I like the hand-rubbed polyurethane, though, and I wish there was something similar for lighter painted pieces). BTW, Rockler has a free shipping code (V1956) right now, so you can get the Minwax Dark Wax for less than $14 shipped.

21. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 7:52 am

    Thanks for the valuable info! We recently painted a large piece of furniture and I want to seal it but I don't want a sheen. Would wax be a good option? How durable is it with kids?

22. 

    Junking and Painting on March 30, 2011 at 8:08 am

    I have a piece of furniture with a clear wax finish that I would like to repaint a different color. I know you said the chalk paint can be painted over a waxed piece, but can I use regular latex or oil paint? Does it need to be sanded or wiped first with mineral spirits? Any suggestions would be great! I have directed so many of my friends to your website! Love all that you do! Slipcovers are next!

23. 

    Stefani on March 30, 2011 at 8:20 am

    WoW! Thank you for putting that together for everyone!

24. 

    Bonnie on March 30, 2011 at 8:28 am

    you are soooo funny! "sit still" lol.
    I'm excited to wax something. I'm going to buy some wax today… I'm ditching the glaze (which I don't like to use) and going to try wax! Thanks for the great video

25. 

    Jamie on March 30, 2011 at 8:34 am

    A few people have mentioned this already but I would also like to know about the durability of wax finishes. I did a furniture finishing course at a local trade school and the teachers there where all about spray on lacquers. I don't have a sprayer and would like to know if all these "wipe on" finishes really stand up to the wear and tear of busy lives.
    Love your blog.

26. 

    Nancy on March 30, 2011 at 8:43 am

    Thank you so much for your tutorial, you do such a great job at explaining and teaching. I have used a product for many years called Briwax. It comes in a range of colors from clear to dark brown. This product is made in England. I reside in Alabama and I am able to find it in local antique stores. It has a real loose and creamy consistency and the finish is great and very durable as well. I pay about 18 to 20 dollars for an 16oz. can. I just love waxing pieces as well. It gives the piece such a soft natural look and the fumes to me are far less obnoxious then the poly ones. Thanks again and keep sending out great videos.Blessings to you and your family.

27. 

    Skeet on March 30, 2011 at 9:12 am

    I opened up your blog today and there is no video just a black box. Any Idea.

28. 

    Funky Junk Interiors on March 30, 2011 at 9:19 am

    Awesome! Thanks!

    With waxes, will a recoat be necessary at some point if the piece is well used, such as a table top?

    Donna

29. 

    Pam on March 30, 2011 at 9:23 am

    I love waxing furniture! Great job! I learned about a brush who knew and how to clean it-thanks 'cause that is the first thing I thought of when you started using it! I love brushes too and would hate to ruin it. So many thanks. I will say the wax I use gets put on in smaller areas and it hardens immediately and has to be buffed right away. I love it because because I like to move fast. I'm excited to order the chalk paint thanks for that info too.

30. 

    Lindsea on March 30, 2011 at 9:38 am

    Hi Marian! Awesome Tutorial, thank you so much for sharing your techniques with us. I sometimes use candles to wax a piece under the topcoat for easier distressing but it sometimes pills up. Do you think the waxes you mention could be used under the topcoat for easier distressing or do you think these waxes are more for finishing? Would love to know your thoughts, thanks!! 🙂 ~Lindsea

31. 

    UrbanCottageDecor.blogspot.com on March 30, 2011 at 9:45 am

    Hi Mariann,

    Thanks for the awesome tutorials. What color did you paint your chest with? Hopefully it's chalk paint as I just ordered the whole kit from a stockist out here in California. And what about buffing – how do you do that? Just with a clean rag until it's shiny? Like buffing a car? I love your paint clothes – I don't have specific paint clothes just paint all over all of my clothes – Lol 🙂

32. 

    Kim Nath on March 30, 2011 at 9:53 am

    I am brand new to furniture refinishing and have learned more with this video than I have in perusing the web for info over the last few months! Thank you so much for a lot of great info in a short and sweet vid!

33. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 11:04 am

    What an excellent video! I am so lucky to have come across your site!!! First off you are so adorable and I love your painting clothes.

    Thank you for the info on the waxes and I was also wondering if you were going to possibly do a video on the paint technique such as the dry brushing? I have never done this and I am a bit intimidated. I guess I should just get out a few pieces of wood and just experiment with them.

    Again, Thank you so much!!!
    Sandy

34. 

    Kaye on March 30, 2011 at 11:49 am

    Great video; you're saving me a lot of mistakes and money!

    Thanks for your time and advice, it's great!

    Kaye

35. 

    Carol@TheDesignPages on March 30, 2011 at 12:33 pm

    Thanks for the great tutorial. I just finished a piece and after painting and then staining I gave it a coat of clear wax. The wax actually removed the stain. Any idea why this happens?

36. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 12:35 pm

    We are completely new to furniture refinishing and are getting ready to try refinishing a lovely old china cabinet…Can wax be used over regular latex paint instead of the Annie Sloan chalk paints? And would you use flat or a glossier sheen under the wax?
    Thanks so much for any info you can provide.

37. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 12:57 pm

    Terrific tutorial – thank you so much. Your blog just keeps inspiring me to keep going!

38. 

    Cindi @ Rustique Art on March 30, 2011 at 12:58 pm

    Awesome video…learned bunches. One question though. I just painted a headboard for my teen son's room. Just black no distressing, so do I wax it for protecting the finish only, is that what waxing is for? If poly finishing I don't desire a high gloss, just satin. So which one do I go with? I think I would prefer wax as it looks more fun and easier to work with then brushing on polyurethane.

    I loved your clothes…you look comfy, when I work with my barbwire I have to wear thick overalls, long sleeves and gloves. Not much fun when temps hit the high 90's or above. I would prefer your work clothes

39. 

    Nutbird on March 30, 2011 at 1:26 pm

    Wax on, Wax off! Isn't that from the Karate Kid? Well, you have inspired me yet again. I might not paint a piece of furniture, but I think the wax brush would be perfect for all my antique furniture. I have many unvarnished things like pie safes, bureaus, Welsh dressers. They should be waxed every year, but I am a decade or so behind. The brush and the creamier waxes will make it much easier. I also have a trestle table made from boards taken from a 1600's era house in Connecticut, made by a friend. I can justify buying that brush to feed wood grown in the 1500's. Thanks for showing us different kinds of waxes. I don't like the smell of Briwax and the other French polish wax I have. Love the hardware store on ebay. They have some really neat products, including the marshmallow attachments to sticks for campfires. Ann

40. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 1:36 pm

    Thanks for taking the time to share your techniques. Are you still planning on sharing an in-depth tutorial for your dining room chair slipcovers? I am dying to make some for my chairs and would love to see more info on how you did yours. Thanks soooo much!!

41. 

    Morning T on March 30, 2011 at 1:37 pm

    Great video and info! Not sure if you covered this or not (had to sneak and watch at work), but what's the difference between using a darker wax and an antiquing glaze?

    I'm hoping to finish a big project tonite and my final step is the glaze OR wax now that I've seen your post. Thank you!

    Hugs~
    T

42. 

    Sharon on March 30, 2011 at 2:01 pm

    OK , now I really want some of that chalk paint and some of that wax , I have looked on The Annie Slone site , but can't seem to figure out how to order it. Where do you get it from ?

43. 

    KimW on March 30, 2011 at 2:52 pm

    To the Blogger who only found a black hole. I also had that problem – but was able to play the video by going to another web browser. I originally opened it in Internet Explorer and got only a hole – I then went to Mozilla Firefox and it worked great.

44. 

    Disel on March 30, 2011 at 2:54 pm

    Come on good weather! I can't wait to get out on the carport and paint. I actually have 3 pieces I am trying to get done. Thanks so much for all of the wonderful tips. And by the way where did you get the wax brush?

45. 

    Mrs. Cooley on March 30, 2011 at 4:57 pm

    This was so helpful!! Thank you!! As I've been reading all these posts and all this talk about "wax" came up, I was completely clueless! Now I get it!! I'm looking forward to maybe some video tutorials on how to actually paint and distress with sandpaper!?!? That has left me a bit lost as well… 🙁

46. 

    Anonymous on March 30, 2011 at 5:20 pm

    I'm so happy to have stumbled upon your blog not so long ago! I'm learning so much from you and enjoying it all! So thank you for inspiring me. I have a question about wax. I bought a can of minwax paste and wondered if it was old, it was the last can and dusty. Then when I opened it and started to use it, it was crumbly. I don't think it would be possible to use a brush with it. The finish came out nicely, but I'm just wondering about whether this product can expire??
    Danielle in Minnesota

47. 

    Raine and Sage on March 30, 2011 at 5:38 pm

    In Mr Miyagi's words "wax on, wax off.."! Excellent tutorial – many thanks!

48. 

    Kim @ A Brush of Whimsy on March 30, 2011 at 10:23 pm

    Marian,
    Thank you so much for the tute! I'm going to go order some of that dark minwax right now!
    Kim 🙂

49. 

    Lea on March 30, 2011 at 11:08 pm

    Thank you for the video! Is wax appropriate for a dining table top? Will it stand up to kids and dishes?
    Thanks!

50. 

    Shell on March 31, 2011 at 2:08 am

    Thanks so much for sharing the video. I know there is a question I need to ask but it's slipping my mind since I'm trying to run out the door lol. Just wanted to mention that the lady looking for 'lime' wax should look up liming wax such as Briwax. ta ta for now.

51. 

    Alima on March 31, 2011 at 5:35 am

    Great video! I love all in the info. I have a question – I distressed two pieces of furniture about 2 years ago. It was the first time I had every really painted furniture, never mind distress so I was very conservative and went really light on the distressing. I love them but now I wish I had distressed a little more. Would a dark wax be a good option for helping to distress them a little more? Does it have to be applied to fresh paint or can it be applied to something that was painted 2 years ago? I did not polyurathane them. Thanks! Sorry for the long question!

52. 

    Lesley on March 31, 2011 at 7:39 am

    You RoCk! Thanks for the info.:)

53. 

    Full Circle Creations on March 31, 2011 at 10:04 am

    Thanks for the video. I just love watching you work. No wonder you get so much done. I've been using minwax for years, but haven't used any wax that you can brush on. I can't wait to get to try some different waxes. Thanks again!

54. 

    Amy on March 31, 2011 at 11:01 am

    I just tried Minwax's light paste for the first time on a dresser I just did and love it! I posted about here:
    http://stormcloudnine.blogspot.com/2011/03/just-beachy.html
    I definitely want to try the dark wax soon to be able to use a brush with it.
    Question: Is it ok to use this wax on top of stained wood – like on a table top that's been stained a dark finish? If so, I'd def. prefer to use wax as opposed to polyurethane.

    Thanks for the great how-to video!

    • 

      Bonnie on March 15, 2012 at 6:54 pm

      How do I get to the REPLY comment. I see the question, but no reply? Thanks

55. 

    hilary @ oldhouse.truelove. on April 1, 2011 at 3:51 am

    thank you for always being so generous with all your tips and tricks. : )

56. 

    decorating diva {aka deanna} on April 1, 2011 at 8:45 am

    thanks for all the great info! i love it when you share! God bless!

57. 

    Sue@MyArtsDesire on April 1, 2011 at 11:17 am

    Just discovered your blog! Oh happy day! Just the inspiration I needed to get after some of these pieces I've been meaning to do…for a long time. Your source on Ebay is out of the clear wax…the others on Ebay have their prices way high. But I did find another source at http://www.americanmadeworkshop.com that sells only the clear for roughly $20 (including shipping). Thought I'd pass it along in case others are looking for another immediate source. Thanks bunches! Xo

58. 

    M on April 1, 2011 at 6:19 pm

    what is the most durable finish for a dining room table? Mine is mahogany. Want to re-do it. Considering stripping the original finish. Then what? paint+wax, paint+ poly, poly only, wax only?
    Guidance please! I really appreciate all your advice on your blog.

59. 

    Wanda @ Just Vintage on April 3, 2011 at 6:57 am

    I also wonder about the "protectiveness" of wax. My husband is a believer in oil paints. Mainly because we've had problems with things sitting on latex painted shelves and sticking over time. They don't stick as bad on oil (although I've found that they do actually stick, but I can't convince him differently.) Anyway, I might like to paint flowers in oil, but I don't like using it on furniture or shelves. Will the wax, if used over latex, keep items from sticking to the finish?

    wanda@shopjustvintage.com

60. 

    Shawna Powell on April 3, 2011 at 7:40 am

    Thank you for the post! I love that look and now I am so inspired. I have two old built in cabinets in my dinning room,(similar to yours) and was wondering how hard they were to paint and wax. Mine are covered with very old poly, almost rough like, Would you recommend striping them down completely before painting and starting new? I am gonna try the chalk paint on them. But wanted your opinion on if I should strip them or not first. Thanks so much for all you do, and I so love visiting your blog often.
    Hugs to you,
    Shawna

61. 

    Anonymous on April 3, 2011 at 8:00 pm

    Do you think this technique would work well for protecting and aging painted cabinets? I have primed, painted and aged them using a stain but do not like the way they are holding up. The stain was supposed to be a stain and sealer in one but I am getting nicks already.

62. 

    Jill@Patinka's on April 4, 2011 at 5:10 am

    Do you think that the wax is as strong a finish as poly? I paint and sell too but afraid a customer will bring it back because the wax didn't protect it as good as the poly. So glad I found you!! Great videos!!

63. 

    Anonymous on April 4, 2011 at 7:13 am

    I found that you can order the minwax light and special dark paste wax online at doitbest.com and you DO NOT have to pay shipping because they will deliver to your local hardware store (if it's a participating store)…might want to check it out and see if it's available in your area

64. 

    QuirkyKim on April 4, 2011 at 11:43 am

    Well, I'm a wax virgin… You started to say something about buffing; not to "run a rag over it" until it is dry. BUT, Could you please tell us a bit about the buffing? How? How much? With what? Etc. I've never tried this before… Thanks! QuirkyKim

65. 

    Tavia on April 4, 2011 at 8:54 pm

    What a fantastic tutorial. You really do an excellent job. I can't tell you how valuable all your information is!! Your changin lives girl hehe!

66. 

    Alison @ The Polohouse on April 8, 2011 at 9:29 pm

    Thanks so much for this inspirational tutorial.
    I am going to order the paint, the brush and the waxes tomorrow. I knew my painted pieces were missing that deep aged lustre. Now I get it!

    You are such a natural in front of the camera.
    Thanks again!
    xx
    Alison

67. 

    martha garrett on April 11, 2011 at 5:17 pm

    Hi Marian:

    What a great tutorial, and your outfit, so cool!
    This took the fear out of waxing, I really like it its simpler than the glaze. I just finished a frame, I painted it Louis Blue chalk paint, then I sanded it by hand to distress it a bit, then I didn't have the dark wax (ordering tonight), so I had some french was clear from an antique store, so I tried it, it toned down the blue but not enough, like the dark one on the video. Thank you for being so generous, and taking the time to do this video.

    Love,
    Martha

68. 

    April @ The Painted Cupboard on April 13, 2011 at 8:24 am

    Can you also polyurethane with this chalk paint or do you have to wax? Thanks!

    • 

      Tina on March 10, 2012 at 7:54 am

      I am getting ready to paint my grandmother’s dining table in ASCP. Will wax be enough to protect the top of the table or should I use a polyurethane sealer? Thanks.

      • 

        Miss Mustard Seed on March 10, 2012 at 8:07 am

        Yep, wax will be enough!

69. 

    Katie on April 14, 2011 at 11:49 am

    I need your help Miss Mustard Seed! My chalk paint just arrived and I painted some furniture. Love the paint; however, the wax turned out streaky. Is it because I used graphite paint color, which is dark? Could it be the Briwax? Could it be the type of rag I used to rub it off? I tried applying more wax and rubbing harder, all to no avail. Help, please!

70. 

    Jen T on April 14, 2011 at 12:05 pm

    I have my Fiddes & Sons wax and I'm going to town with it now! Thanks for the awesome info – JenT

71. 

    freckled laundry on April 14, 2011 at 11:02 pm

    How did I miss this one? Awesome & very informative video. I haven't used my Hannant's yet so this was very helpful…thanks. I think you nailed with "do whatever you're comfortable with, happy with, works for you, etc." You are so cute. I have a few sweat shirts & Ts like that. The more broken in, the better, right? Your technique is so fast. It would have taken me 30 minutes to do what you did in less than 10. The finished trunk looks so gorgeous in the close up.

72. 

    chris on April 19, 2011 at 2:14 pm

    i noticed in the picture how the corner looks naturally aged and dirty. i have only used clear wax (minwax) over latex and only a few pieces. (how to ask a question the looong way)
    did you buff the dark wax as much as places with just clear? i mean he texture of the "dirty" look like they occurred naturally. (which i already said, duh)
    ill just stop talking now.

73. 

    Decor Createur on April 19, 2011 at 10:20 pm

    Hi
    I am so impressed with what the wax does. I really want to try it. I to love to refinish and paint furniture and I also have my own business. Although, I make and sell tin cornice shelves from antique tin cornice and antique restoration pressed tin. If curious what I'm talking about I have a blog (www.decorcreateur.blogspot.com) and an Etsy http://www.etsy.com/shop/decorcreateur.
    Ok so my question is would these glazes work on metal as well as they do on wood. I normally use glaze but am really impressed on how your pieces turn out with the wax. I certainly will try the wax on my furniture I just wanted to know your thoughts on the tin.

    Thank you
    Jennifer
    Decorcreateur@gmail.com

74. 

    Katelyn & Wade on May 22, 2011 at 10:56 pm

    Loved this tutorial! So helpful. I'm curious if you've ever used wax on a tabletop. I assume it's safe, but how about durability? Will wax wear, thin or peel with time?

    Thank you!
    Katelyn

    katelynbhunt@gmail.com

75. 

    Anonymous on May 25, 2011 at 4:43 pm

    If I want to wax an antique table with ornate legs, do I want to use a tinted wax ( it has a dark stain currently) or do I want to use a clear wax?
    kcduda@comcast.net

76. 

    Junker Newbie Stephanie on May 25, 2011 at 4:53 pm

    This was fantastic! I just waxed a piece for the first time today. thanks for giving me the confidence!

    Quick question though – if I was going to sand a piece to distress it a bit, and I'm using chalk paint – should I sand it before or after a clear wax?

77. 

    kpj on June 8, 2011 at 1:30 pm

    I'm thinking of chalk painting a kitchen/dinng table. Is the wax coating durable enough to withstand daily use?

78. 

    teamallen09 on June 11, 2011 at 10:28 am

    Major problem!!!!! I used this technique on bedroom furniture, but the was is not hardening? i still get streaks and smears when i touch it and i can still remove wax, this is a problem b/c of the daily use of the dresser and i am scared its going to ruin my bed pillows, i can send pics of my project if need be, i tried to put wipe on poly ontop of the wax to get a hard finish but that was a major mistake it took of some of the wax in spots and it never truly hardened! please please help!!!!

79. 

    teamallen09 on June 11, 2011 at 1:46 pm

    my email address if not posted on my previous question about my wax problem is teamallen09@aol.com

80. 

    Anonymous on June 13, 2011 at 9:30 pm

    Thank you for your video and instructions. My question is in re-guard to prepping the furniture for the paint. Are you sanding the piece down before painting with chalk paint? Have you used the liquid sandpaper products? I love the distressed look that you have accomplished.

    My email is dhbadge@att.net.

    Hope

81. 

    Jasmine Atiyeh on June 25, 2011 at 9:00 pm

    Hello,

    Thank you so much for your video. I am very new to chalk paint. I painted a piece of furniture in emporers silk and then applied annie's dark wax. I left it on for a couple of hours and then tried to remove the wax and can't. How do I remove it? I applied the dark wax on the red to make the paint color look richer. Thank you so much for your help!

82. 

    mosaicdiva on July 1, 2011 at 11:07 am

    I just finished watching your wax tutorial. Learned a lot! FYI…I went to my local Sherwin Williams store and ordered some Minwax Dark Finishing wax today. It was around $9. I learned that SW owns Minwax and Krylon and they can get products in at no extra cost since they own the company. That beats ordering it somewhere or online and paying shipping.

83. 

    Tammy on July 2, 2011 at 1:03 pm

    Hello,
    I just watched your video. I ordered just the dark Fiddes & Sons wax. Do I need to use the clear with the dark, or is that just your preference? I like a primitive look to my pieces, so that is why I chose the darker wax. Thank you!

84. 

    Tammy on July 14, 2011 at 11:57 am

    Hi It's me again. I just used the Jacobean wax. When I applied it with my brush, my white paint turned completely gray color only where I initially brushed it on. What did I do?? I am so sad about it. I tried to buff it to no avail So I just stained my piece of furniture with walnut color. You can still see the gray color. Any suggestions? I hope I did not just waste my $:(

85. 

    Sommer on August 16, 2011 at 3:48 pm

    Hello Marian!

    I'm going to pick up my first set of paint this weekend! I'm so excited but I'm wondering about the wax. Can you tell me which wax the briwax is most closely alike? And on your list of best to worst where does the briwax fall? I am still debating rather to get the briwax or the hannants. I just don't know. Thanks!

86. 

    Anonymous on August 22, 2011 at 8:38 am

    Thank you so much for this tutorial! I just finished painting a table and chairs with chalk paint and am now set to apply the wax. Thank you again 🙂
    Emily
    coastaldesigner@hotmail.com

87. 

    Anneke {RustiChic} on August 23, 2011 at 12:28 am

    Haha! My pants looks JUST like that! I am trying to figure out how to protect this farmhouse tabletop I recently bought off of craigslist. ??? It's just sanded down to nothing and so pretty with no stain (like restoration hardware). Will wax like this be enough to prevent water rings, etc and protect it? How often would you have to reapply??? This is new territory for me! Thank you!

88. 

    Tammy on September 6, 2011 at 9:05 am

    Hey! I now know what happened with the wax that turned my white paint gray in color. I used it when it was liquidy. When I ordered my chalk paint it came with a card that said to refrigerate wax for a couple of hours and it will solidify. I did it and viola! I now know it was a chemical imbalance that changed the color.

89. 

    Susanna on September 25, 2011 at 2:28 pm

    Thanks for the great tips!

90. 

    Jessica @ Nuchey's Mommy on October 7, 2011 at 7:18 pm

    Just watched the video! Never used wax so this was helpful 🙂 Where is the best (most economical) place to order chalk paint? Any place you really like?

91. 

    Deana on October 9, 2011 at 10:18 am

    Great Blog! I will be back. I have owned my own painting/faux finishing, color consulting business and also get excited by paint products. Having mostly worked on walls I have wanted to expand into furniture and have been collecting pieces to work on. My husband would love to have them out of the garage and shed; you have inspired me to try waxes. I do have one question. I have a teak table that is 30 years old and needs to be redone somehow. With the use of Danish Oil on it over the years do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

92. 

    Anonymous on October 12, 2011 at 10:38 am

    Thank you for the great tutorial. I have been using the A.S. soft wax incorrectly. I have been applying the wax and then trying to buff immediately. I can't wait to paint and wax another piece and this time do it correctly!

    Julie

93. 

    Anonymous on October 17, 2011 at 5:56 pm

    Hello … I've been trying to soak up all the info I can on useing chalk paint and wax by surfing thru blogland. My daughter is getting her own place (finally), and I have 3 pieces waiting in the garage for some paint and a wax job. I think I'm ready to take the plung and get to painting. Now that I've watched your tutorial on waxes I can finish them up the right way. Thanks for all the info you shared.
    Wish me luck : ) and thanks again. I'll definately be keeping my eyes on your blog.
    ~ Charlene

94. 

    Lori on October 25, 2011 at 7:01 am

    Good Morning,

    I so appreciate all of the information you provided in this wax tutorial. Since I am new at furniture restoration, I am hoping to get your thoughts on a historical project that is at a standstill. My husband and I live in an old general store that was built in 1885. After years of renovation we are nearing the end but would like to know if you have any suggestions on how to save an original bead board ceiling? It is currently sanded and ready to finish. We had initially planned to stain it a walnut color and then seal it with poly, however, we quite like the gray patina and wood grain that emerged from sanding. Would you recommend using a wax to seal the wood and if so should we use clear or wax with a color? Or should we consider glazing and then waxing? We are afraid to stain it because the wood might be inconsistent in how it absorbs the stain and we don't want to end up with a splotchy look. Any advice would be much appreciated!

    Thanks so much,

    Lori

95. 

    Kim on November 9, 2011 at 4:18 pm

    Thank you so much for the tutorial. I love your paint clothes! lol and the clear boxes you have to put your piece on to paint it. My kinda girl:) Very inspiring and down to earth btw! and that’s a really good thing in my book. Anyway, I have a question….I am going to paint my kitchen cabinets. They are new unfinished wood joined with old painted wood. I have heard about the chalk paint and it sounds amazing, but is it practical for a kitchen, with 4 kids?!!? I have never waxed a piece and a friend of mine told me it can take forever for varnish and waxes to dry. Would you kindly tell me your opinion as to whether this is a good idea for this space, and if not, what would you reccomend. Also, my walls are cream, and I am thinking of doing cream cabinets as well. And maybe pairing it with a robin’s egg blue. What do you think about the cream against cream?

96. 

    Stephanie on November 27, 2011 at 5:17 pm

    Hi. Thanks for the info . . . I have a question. I feel like a newbie, but is the wax in place of the normal polyurethane top coat? I am thinking of redoing my kitchen cabinets and like the off white look with dark corners and details showing here and there and I’m wondering if I should paint them, sand a little to show the dark and then wax???

    Thanks for the info 🙂
    Stephanie

97. 

    Cheryl on January 6, 2012 at 5:49 pm

    Hi. Thank you so much for this Very helpful video! You did a great job explaining it all! I do have one question… I’ve recently been trying the AS Chalk Paint but when I used the dark wax alone over the Graphite to make it Black it left streaks in the color. Was I doing something wrong or is that typical? I really want the color to darken so I assumed that using the clear underneath would prevent that from happening but I don’t like the streaking. Please help!
    Thank you!

98. 

    Melissa on January 10, 2012 at 9:57 pm

    Hi, I went to the site, Millen Hardware, and was wondering if you actually buy from that site or do you still buy from them off Ebay. The reason I ask is their site does not show that it has any protection guard against anyone stealing your visa/bankcard information. Through Ebay, I always use paypal but their site doesn’t have it. I so want to buy from them since you can buy the wax at $14.00 but I am a little scared.

99. 

    Erin on February 1, 2012 at 8:51 pm

    So I noticed you don’t wipe off the clear or the dark wax after you apply it…? I’ve watched and read so much on Annie Sloan’s and waxing, I’m overloaded and don’t know who to follow.

    Have you ever latex-ed a dark paint first (so that there is a dark underlying color), to paint a light color chalk paint over it? Since it’s latex you would have to sand, prime, paint, right?

    Thanks for the video and all the good tips!!

100. 

     Erin on March 7, 2012 at 3:05 pm

     I’m going to order some Annie Sloan’s and wanted your opinion. 🙂
     Have you used the “pour spot lids”? Any need of them (only $5)?
     Also, I’m ordering the clear wax, b/c tried minwax and I thought it left a dingy color…
     After only one waxing experience, I think I must have the wax brush, so getting the smaller of the two. Thoughts?
     Thanks!!!

101. 

     Karen Geil on March 11, 2012 at 3:44 pm

     Thanks so much for the informative video on waxing. I have just become Chalk Paint user and I am liking it!! Just needed so questions answered and you did just that! Can’t wait to start my next piece!

     • 

       Frances Mazzarisi on January 22, 2013 at 6:30 pm

       I used Annie Sloan soft wax on my piece I painted.
       i was told to wipe off right away or it would be
       difficult to remove.Is that correct?
       Thank you

102. 

     Bonnie on March 15, 2012 at 6:30 pm

     Remarkable instruction. What do I do after I have applied the waxes? Just buff with a soft cloth?

103. 

     Debbie Malone on March 23, 2012 at 4:21 pm

     I took the time to watch everyone of your tutorials, I especially enjoyed the slipcover one, even though I am busy with painting right now! I am eager to learn everything I can and you make it easy to follow…your instructions are wonderful! I admire you Miss Mustard Seed and consider myself lucky to have a great mentor that’s willing and humble to share everything you know! Thank you for the tutorials…God Bless my friend!

104. 

     Thespoena McLaughlin on April 16, 2012 at 11:06 am

     Hi there, thank so much for this video. Most excellent! I wanted to ask you about the texture on the wood in the photos. The dotted looking texture on the wood, is that a result of the wax? or is it a texture of the wood brought out by the wax. The reason I’m asking is that I love that texture and trying to duplicate it. Thanks so much again, have a great day!

     • 

       Miss Mustard Seed on April 16, 2012 at 11:49 am

       It’s the texture of the wood brought out by the wax. You can create that by creating a texture with the paint or by beating up the wood before painting and waxing it. The dark wax will find all of the imperfections and bring them out.

105. 

     DeeAnn on May 1, 2012 at 12:38 pm

     Thank you so much for the video, for sure going to try this. You are so talented and have really enjoyed all your information please keep posting, love it!

106. 

     Samantha on May 16, 2012 at 7:26 pm

     Hey! I love the video it is so helpful!!!! I just had one question, do all these waxes work over chalk paint? I have heard that some of them will ruin the chalk paint and don’t work well with them? The Fiddes wax is much cheaper and would be good to use if it will work with the chalk paint.
     Thank you for the video!

107. 

     Kari on July 23, 2012 at 2:18 pm

     It says the video doesnt exist anymore???? Is it uploaded somewhere else?

108. 

     jennifer on July 28, 2012 at 4:54 pm

     Hi There – It’s so great that you are willing to share all this information with us. Thank You! I have a wax question: I purchased the Annie Sloan dark wax and I’m having a terrible time with it. I usually use Minwax and have no trouble with it. I find the AS dark wax to be very “dry” — I don’t know what I am doing wrong. I try using a tiny bit and it doesn’t seem to be enough. More wax makes it streaky — I also try to buff it and it just doesn’t seem to “buff” – does that make sense? I spent a lot of loot on it, but I’m ready to throw it out. Any suggestions? Thank you again!

109. 

     Julie on August 22, 2012 at 1:38 am

     Thank you so much for the video! I finally got a chance to view both waxing vids at home (and made hubs watch part as well, since he is a doubting Thomas).

     I have a can of Minwax clear wax, which, due to our sensationally hot summer, is actually quite creamy and easy to work with. I’m wondering if there is a way for me to darken a bit of the wax to use for a specific project, rather than try to find a dark wax locally and pay through the nose for something I’m not sure that I will use again? I don’t want to glaze this piece due to the amount of carving and relief (it’s an old handmade mexican/spanish piece), but I’m having good luck with the wax on other (less intricate) things. Any thoughts?

110. 

     pam on September 23, 2012 at 5:49 am

     have a desk that I am eager to redo for our office want to paint the bottom a funky sha green
     (sherwin williams color,I think) the top is a very smooth laminate Since this will be in the office the top will get daily use my laptop phone etc will be desktop , the top cannot not be pampered
     I’ve read so much about chalk paint and waxing and I love the results.
     I will be using a homemade chalk paint , with the calcium carbonate or unsanded grout recipe whichever ingredient is easier to find. Ah for my question, how do I approach painting the laminate top and will using the fiddes wax clear and dark be enough protection for the top
     eager to get started

     thanks

111. 

     Allison Hodgdon on February 18, 2013 at 1:29 pm

     I’m new to chalk paint although I can’t say enough about it. Love it! I’d used MinWax Paste wax. It worked but I never knew when it was “there.”

     Picked up the Johnson wax and its incredible. Love it and its less costly than MinWax. Right now I have to watch that. 🙂

112. 

     mark on May 27, 2013 at 9:34 pm

     I thought I heard on a AS video that her clear wax can be tinted with her chalk paint ??? Anyone try this ? Maybe her “Soft Wax” isn’t a petroleum based wax ??

113. 

     Fran on November 14, 2013 at 11:49 am

     Where did you get your wax brush? I saw one on Amazon some people liked it but many said it shed. I was about $14.00. Thanks for you help!

114. 

     Tara Corley on February 23, 2014 at 4:41 pm

     Hi! Okie dokie… so I used Typewriter Black on a desk that I am going to use for a buffet in my dining room. Then, I used the MMS Wax with the MMS brush. Then, I let it sit for 5 min. Then I took a clean white cotton cloth and rubbed it off. But, the problem I am having is the lint showing up on the black buffet now. How can I get rid of that?

115. 

     Kim on October 20, 2014 at 3:29 pm

     Can the fiddes clear wax be used over stained wood or do I have to seal the wood first?