The first delight of our trip came when we boarded the airplane from Washington Dulles to London Heathrow. As we’re walking through the first-class cabin, it’s hard not to look over the cubicle and wish we had tickets for one. Oh, to be able to lie flat in an airplane seat on an international flight. It would be such a treat. But we were prepared to shimmy down the aisle to basic economy. We passed the next cabin, with wide seats and generous legroom. I thought, “I would take that in a heartbeat.” As I’m looking at our seat assignment and the numbers on the rows, I slowly realized we were sitting in that section! I thought they had bumped us up, but after reviewing my tickets again, I had booked World Traveler Plus on this leg of our trip. I’m really not sure how I did that since the rest of our seats are in basic economy, but we enjoyed the surprise. We were like little kids in a new car…trying to figure out how all of the buttons work, how the seats recline, and how the tray table folds from the armrest. We rummaged through our goodie bags, giggling, as if a free pen, lip balm, eye mask, and a thin pair of socks were a greater prize than they actually were.
It made the flight much more comfortable, though, and we were grateful for it. I actually slept, which might be a first for me on an airplane.
We landed in London right on time, and, as one might expect landing in London for the first time, there was a thick blanket of fog covering the ground. We went through baggage claim and customs and met up with Julia, our friend and guide, at International Arrivals. (You can follow Julia HERE.) She would drive us straight from the airport to the Cotswold region, which would take about an hour and a half.
Mom and I were jetlagged, and it felt like the middle of the night for us, but the fog burned off, the sun came out, and the excitement of being in England acted like a shot of caffeine. I was already snapping photos out of the window, not realizing there would be field after field, village after village, and sheep after sheep to photograph.
The best way to turn around your circadian rhythm is to stay on the move, so that’s what Julia had planned for our first day. We would village-hop our way through the Cotswolds until we arrived at the cottage where we’d be staying for three days. Julia asked if I wanted to see anything specific, but I really didn’t have a specific village or place in mind. I just wanted to be in the English countryside and soak up as much of it as I could.
Our first stop was Burford, which is known as the Gateway to the Cotswolds. It’s a beautiful old town situated on the slope of a hill. The main street is lined with shops, cafes, and pubs. I was awestruck right away. As someone who loves history, architecture, and old homes, it was overwhelming to take it all in. One moment, I am fascinated by an ornate gutter, and the next I’m blown away by a 1500s date carved above a doorway. I sighed over every piece of chunky brass or iron hardware, every rippled leaded window, the beams, and the buttery stone. I wanted to wish the cars away and fill the streets with horses, carriages, and period clothing so I could get a better sense of what the village looked and felt like in another era.
At one point, I asked Julia, “Do you still feel a fascination with how old these buildings are?” She assured me she does. These homes were old when Jane Austen penned Pride & Prejudice. They were old before America even became a nation. I love that it’s all still standing, lived in, cared for, and that people, for the most part, have found a way to integrate modern life into villages built largely during the Middle Ages.
I always knew I would love the Cotswolds, and I did, right from the start.
Here are some shots from the main street…
Once the initial overwhelm passed, I started to notice smaller details like a comically crooked window (or entire gable) or a fresh milk delivery sitting by a door in a glass bottle and metal rack.
We didn’t stay in Burford long, but we took some time to walk up the hill and back down again, and appreciate the rows of homes on each side of the street. It was mid-morning, so one side of the street was bathed in sunlight, making the Cotswold stones glow.
While I’m still not a fan of English Ivy because of the battle I have with it in our yard, I am smitten with all of the vines and trained trees climbing on homes, shops, and barns around the Cotswolds. It makes me even more excited to see how my espalier apple trees will look against our house as they grow.
One of the nice things about hiking up the hill was the view at the top. I asked Julia if she could take us to vistas where I could look over fields, hedgerows, arms, and villages, and take lots of pictures. She assured me she would.
We were there for such a short time that I don’t have any recommendations, but the one thing I will encourage first-time visitors to do is to get off the main street. Even just walking down a side street right off the main thoroughfare will get you away from cars and other people. I often wandered off to try to get pictures without cars and tourists in the way!
We got back in the car and set out for the next village. Of course, I took more pictures along the way. At this point, I was still shooting out the window, but Julia (who was driving) and I eventually found a system so I could safely hop out of the car for some quick photos as we traveled.
You can see my next post on my Cotswolds trip – Bibury, Barnsley, & The Pig, HERE.
24 Responses
You were so lucky with the weather. I do hope the flights go well; half of Europe’s airports are on strike, and the other half is protesting.
Thank you for the tour! I would love to visit, but your details are so enjoyable to read. Thanks for sharing! Even the change in travel plans only add to the adventure! 😊
You are so blessed to be able to enjoy these trips with your Mom! The pictures are all amazing — Enjoy yourselves!
Marian, thanks for sharing your trip with us through your lovely pictures! So happy that your Mom could go along with you on this trip! Enjoy!
So much fun to follow along on your trip. I’ve only been to England once and spent only a few days in Cambridge and London…and I had a young boy seated behind me on the flight over who kicked my seat constantly all the way across the Atlantic. Your photos are delectable and I look forward to more.
Loved every photo – wanted a cup of tea at the shop with the blankets on the chairs! What a lovely adventure. Enjoy!
Having gone to the Cotswolds many years ago for a family wedding I envy you the experience. It was magical.
Looking forward to your many paintings that will come out of this trip.
You are so fortunate to be able to do this with your mother! I look forward to more of your travelogue. In this time of a disposable society, I think of the line that says there will always be an England.
Thanks for sharing. It looks amazing! Like the others have mentioned, it is so wonderful that your Mom goes with you on these adventures! I too saw those blankets. What a nice comforting touch. It is interesting to see how they have embraced every crack and flaw and makes it look all the more charming and beautiful. In our community a cracked sidewalk would never pass code! Such a special, long awaited trip. Happy travels!
I keep signing as I read this and my husband asked what was making me sign so heavily. What a treat it is to be there. That last pic is soooooo going to be a painting of yours – can tell it immediately.
Glad you’re soaking it all in. Great about the better flying situation over the pond. Comfort is everything!!
Years ago, we spent several weeks in England and started our trip to the countryside in Burford. What shocked me was that every structure from bus shelter for garden shed was built of golden limestone. And the gardens! Every door and tiny stoop had hanging baskets of flowers.
Ask Julia to take you to Chipping Camden and Windrush. I love the Cotswolds, but my fav place is the Lake District. 🙂
I’ve never commented before but, today I must. Ironically, my husband and I are heading to Hagerstown tomorrow for his high school class’s 80th birthday party…they are all turning 80 this year, and, years ago we spent a week in Burford!! He was working and I got to tag along! What beautiful pictures! We stayed in an extremely old hotel…on the third floor! Enjoy your trip! I have followed you for many years!
Thank you! This is eye candy…felt like I was reading an English novel. I loved every picture.
Marian,
Two years ago, Jon and I did London, the Cotswolds, and Scotland. Stow-on-the-Wold was where we finished our trip before heading back and you would love it! I brought back a traveling music stand that hand-carved! The pub, consignment shops, St. Edwards Church, boutiques, architecture and people were beyond what I could have ever expected! I wish I could stayed a week! Blessings on this trip and I’ll be following you and Mom!
Marian-
We have just gotten back from the Cotswolds- an amazing trip for our 40th and my big birthday that’s coming up! I absolutely love it there and like you have always wanted to go! I have soooo many pictures and I know you will as well- Lots of pictures to paint from! I loved an antique shop in Chipping Camden- don’t know the name of it but it would be right up your alley- on the corner and 3 stories full of great stuff! Enjoy every minute of your trip!
I visited the Cotswolds in 2015 and had a wonderful time. Your photos are bringing back so many memories.
Those older homes are so charming, Enjoy your trip with your Mother. And thank you for all the pictures!
I’m loving every recount of your trip! You have a magical talent to write. I can clearly see and feel through your words everything you are experiencing. Thank you for “bringing us along”.
This post was a gift! Two of my besties and I visited Burford and related areas of the Cotswold’s back in 1994. It was so many years ago and I still have such fond memories of our time there. Have a wonderful trip and I’m reading everything you post about the adventure [armchair travel].😊
Karen B.
Travelled to Britain in 1991 w my folks and hubby. My fav stop in Burford was a bookshop where I purchased two children’s books which I still treasure. I’ve always wondered if it’s still there. Delightful to hear of your England adventures; thank you for the treat!
Do you ever watch Chateau Diaries on YouTube? I have been watching from the start (6 yrs) and Stephane is just amazing with all her history lessons of England and France and Beyond. Highly Recommend.
We upgraded to the same level of seats for our trip to Europe in May. The flight home on Air France was spectacular, easily First Class level of posh on other airlines. I’m afraid I may be spoiled for future travel.
I visited these towns years ago and would recommend them to anyone. I hope you can make it to Woodstock and Blenheim Palace. Oh, I wish the baskets of scones were tele-transportable. They just aren’t quite the same in the States.