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empire buffet project | white waxing

I spent some more time today on the empire buffet.  If you missed what this piece looked like before and how it got to this stage, check out PART ONE.

So, we last left the piece with the top stripped off the finish and the body painted in one coat of Shutter Gray MMS Milk Paint with the bonding agent added in.  Since milk paint is thinner than most modern paints, the coverage can be streaky in the first coat if the paint color your using is drastically different than the surface you’re painting.  In this case, I was painting a really dark wood with a medium gray paint, so it wasn’t going to cover in one coat.

This is the stage where some people lose heart…

As with most multi-step furniture painting projects, it looks worse before it looks better.  I’ve said it many times; do not give up at the ugly stage.

See how much better it looks with just a second coat of paint?

This piece had the “dreaded red stain” that seeps pink through the paint.  Ugh.  Fortunately, the finish was mostly intact, sealing the pink in, but it bled through in a few places.  Once the milk paint was dry, I brushed on a little bit of Tough Coat (our new finish that will be available soon) over those areas…

I let the Tough Coat dry and then applied a little more Shutter Gray.  The Tough Coat sealed the stain, so there isn’t any pink showing through.

Once everything was dry, I took the piece outside and sanded down the top.  I had stripped it already, but the reddish/pinkish stain remained and I really wanted a light and airy look for this piece.

When sanding a top down, I start with a really rough paper like 40 grit, then move up in steps…100, 180, 220, 320.  The higher the number, the finer the grit and the smoother the wood will be.  The lighter top was working so much better with the pale blue/gray paint now.

But I wanted to go even lighter, so I rubbed in some White Wax.

It gave the wood a beautiful, bleached look, which was just what I wanted.  The key when doing this technique is to work on raw wood, to really work it into the grain…

…and then to wipe away the excess, revealing the grain.

As with our other waxes, the finish shouldn’t feel sticky or tacky after it’s applied.  Really work it in and rub it away, so it feels smooth and only slightly wet to the touch.

I decided to do some decorative painting on this piece, so I chalked out a simple, sort of Scandinavian, design and painted it with white acrylic paint.  Once that was dry, I wanted to soften the look, so I used White Wax on the body of the piece.

I just wanted a soft, faded look, so I only loaded a little on our medium wax brush.  It brushes on heavy at first…

…but I really worked it over the surface until the look was muted and soft.

In the picture below, the top and right of the piece has been White Waxed and the left is unwaxed, so you can see the difference.  It’s just a very subtle difference that blends in the hand painted detail and makes the paint almost look faded.

Waxing the piece also “erases” any chalk lines that remain.

Here’s a peek at how the piece is turning out…

I hope to finish it tomorrow…

Marian Parsons 

Paint Enthusiast | Writer | Artist | Designer

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47 Responses

  1. LOVE it!!!! Can’t wait to see it finished. As always you have inspired me to give the white wax a try. I have been so eager to try it, but was afraid. You again have given me inspiration, to go for it, not give up, and just do it!

  2. Miss Marian~You are a very talented lady! Love the hand-painted detail; can’t wait to see the finished product! ;0)

  3. Hi Marian,
    That looks beautiful! I’d like to lighten up our dining table top. I’m in Australia and we call the wood Oregon, which is a type of softwood. It has a real orange tinge to it and I’ve had Buckley’s of getting that colour out/covered. I’m just about to have another go at getting it either whiter or really dark (maybe using a Cabots Cocoa black stain??). I don’t suppose this wax would be durable enough for a dining table? What do you think? I’d be very grateful for your opinion.
    Thanks Marian,
    E.

  4. Looking beautiful! I love the soft gray look and the wood looks lovely and soft, very different than the style we normally see coming from you, I think. It’s lovely.

  5. I just love how this piece is coming together! I’m also a huge Shutter Grey fan. I’m curious about the chalk process. Are you free hand drawing with real chalk or using a chalk paint?

    1. Brushes are a challenge for me….What is your favorite size brush when creating your hand drawn flourishes? Thanks!
      26

  6. L.O.V.E. this dresser! You are being so true to your color choices too! Please think about doing a video tutorial on how to chalk on a design and then how to paint it. I always think I cannot do something, until you do a tutorial and then I think “I can do that!” and even do it!

  7. This is going to be such a gorgeous piece, Marian!
    Waiting with baited breath to see what kind of knobs you will put on this dresser.

  8. I like the hand painted embellishments. How would you describe that type of painting and where could one learn more about it? Youtube? Thanks!

  9. What a perfect piece to make the rehab debut in your new space. It is so very you and will be perfect for your look book and Chapel Market collection. I still really love the light and quality of the photographs. Being in an empty studio really makes the pieces shine. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

  10. I love the shape of the chest and the step-by-step magic of transformation. I painted a distressed finish on my china cabinet, in a pale green shade. How would a coat of the white wax affect It? Would it be softer? Paler? I think I would like to try it.

  11. Another amazing piece! I don’t know how you do it, but you definitely do it! Fantastic! I so want one of your furniture pieces…you need to do a Midwest show!

  12. I think it is breathtaking. How do you find so many empire dressers. I have only found one and someone purchased it before me. I love them because they are so simply and chunky. I noticed that you didn’t seem to paint the edges of the sides Do you plan on painting that later or leaving it? And if you are painting it later, why do you paint the edges last?

    And I agree with everyone, you have inspired me to use the white was on a book case I am painting for a client, thank you!

  13. It looks beautiful!! Just last night I had the same encounter with the dreaded red stain bleeding through my paint. I usually use clear shellac and repaint over it, but I’ll be excited to give your new product, Tough Coat, a try when it comes out. Thanks for another inspiring piece!

  14. This is so lovely! Thanks for noting that you had painted and then went back and sanded the top. I am in the middle of stripping a piece that will be painted and have stained tops and drawers and was debating my ‘order of events’. 😉

    Lisa

  15. After seeing the before and after of this piece, I’m finally ready to take the plunge on an Empire dresser that I will be using in my guest bedroom.
    My question: Do you sand by hand or use a sander? I’ve tried several different sanders and just can’t get the feel for it. I prefer sanding by hand, but I’m afraid that I won’t get an even finish on the top.
    Thanks!

  16. This is one stunning transformation!! I’d like to see one of these a week. I think it would really help sales of your products too.

    I was not for painting that nice wood at first. But now I think it looks much better!

  17. I love your decorative painting! It gives the piece such a uniqueness. I am working on getting up the guts to try something like that. Thanks for the inspiration.

I’m Marian, a painter, writer, and lover of all things creative. From art and antiques to home projects and everyday life, I share my journey in hopes of inspiring you to embrace your own creativity and make beauty in the spaces you live.

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