After a late night of travel followed by two full days, touring Arezzo and teaching a creative workshop, I was feeling run down and decided to skip the group activity planned for the next day.  It was a tough call, but I wanted time to slow down and soak up our beautiful surroundings.  I didn’t want to feel rushed to go to the next place and do the next thing.  I also wanted time to catch up on my journal and to do some plein air painting.

After breakfast, the rest of the group boarded the bus that took them about an hour away to a family-run farm for a pizza-making workshop.  I knew I was missing a special experience and, I was told, an amazing view, but I felt relief that I had a quiet day ahead of me.

The podere (a rural Italian estate) was comprised of several buildings including the main villa, several homes, a chapel, two pools, a greenhouse, gardens, orchards, and over 600 olive trees.  It’s a working farm that produces organic olive oil and grows herbs, figs, pears, apples, vegetables, and more to make products and for use in their kitchens.  The food they made for us daily was fresh, simple, and delicious.  At most meals, I took photos and made notes of what they were serving so I might be able to recreate it at home.

I spent much of my time that day walking around the grounds, taking photos as the light changed.

It is interesting how many private chapels there are around Europe.  We saw them in England and Italy during our trip.  A podere like this, would have one for their family, workers, and others who lived and worked on the estate.  It was more practical to have a priest/pastor travel from chapel to chapel for weddings, baptisms, christenings, and confessions, than it was for people to travel to a community church.

Many of these chapels have been the victims of theft over the years, sadly, so priceless art and altar pieces have been stolen.  This chapel still had its confessional, which I found interesting.  I also loved the natural patina on the walls.

The grounds and gardens are enviable, well thought out and tended.  I admired many of the plants and took photos in the hopes of identifying them later.  As I walked around, thyme, mint, and lavender wafted up and hit my nose.  There were herbs creeping through the grass, mingling among the trees everywhere, running wild.

There were hidden corners of the ancient buildings I might’ve missed if I hadn’t taken this unhurried time to explore.

While the rest of our retreat group was gone for the day, I wasn’t alone.  People were tending to plants, cleaning up the kitchen from breakfast, putting clothes out on a line to dry, maintaining the pools.  I kept finding quiet corners, though, to sit, write, or to take pictures.

After walking around the entire estate, I settled on the subject I wanted to paint – the back door to the dining room in the villa.  I loved the way the light hit the vines growing around the awning, the blue doors and shutters, and creamy white plaster walls.

I stared at my chosen subject for a while, examining a few vantage points before I set up a chair and my pochade box to get started.

I loved this time painting.  Not only was it a gorgeous day – sunny, cool, and dry – but I thoroughly enjoyed everything about the experience.  The painting wasn’t a battle, as many paintings are, but it came easily and I was happy with the result.  Usually, my plein air paintings are just okay sketches.  I rarely feel like I interpret what I’m seeing and feeling as well as I would like.  They fall short and need a lot of adjusting in the studio, or need to be entirely redone.  Today, though, I felt like I captured the view at this moment in time just how I saw it.

I even had some company most of the time…

A farm cat slinked around from one sunny spot to another.  He was aloof and uninterested in me, even when I ksk-ksked at him and squatted down to offer pets, but some cats are content with their own company.

Carolyn let Orsa, our host and the owner of the podere, know I was staying behind from the outing and asked if she could provide some lunch for me.  She had taken a trip into town for some errands and assured Carolyn she would pick something up.  As I was cleaning up from painting, Orsa popped her head around a corner and told me lunch was in the kitchen when I was ready. I took my painting bag back to my room and walked over to the kitchen, expecting to find a takeout box or perhaps a brown paper bag with a sandwich.  Instead, I was greeted with a set table and a full spread of tomato on ciabatta, a flaky spinach-filled pastry, a ball of fresh mozzarella cheese, fresh greens, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt, and a pitcher of cool water.  I was so touched by their attention and kindness, and felt thoroughly taken care of in my day of personal retreat.

I ate a leisurely lunch, and left a thank you note before heading back outside.

I grabbed my journal and sat out by the pool to write and, at times, just sit and take in my surroundings.  I would’ve sat on the edge and dangled my feet into the inviting water, but it was chilly!  Instead, I was wrapped in a sweater, basking in the warmth of the sun like the farm cat.

It was just the day I hoped for when I decided to stay behind.  When the bus came back and the podere was bustling again with participants from our retreat, I heard about the pizza-making, the farm animals, and the delightful people who taught them how to make perfect pizza dough.  I knew I would’ve enjoyed that, too, but I felt satisfied with how my day was spent.  It was what I needed and, honestly, what I wanted.

That night, though, we were in for a treat, and I wouldn’t miss it.  We were invited to dinner at a local castle and vineyard…

Since my Italy posts have been spread out over several months, you can find them all linked below…

The Best View in Siena

Walking Through Siena, Italy

Shopping at the Siena Market

Plein Air Painting in Italy & Podere Tour

Dinner in a Castle | Tuscany Creative Retreat

Travel Journal Workshop

Arezzo Antique Market