I get a lot of questions about wax and other topcoats. A furniture makeover happens peacefully until the polycrylic looks streaky or the wax is blotchy and won’t dry or the poly is yellowing. If you’ve been there, you know that agony of spending hours on a piece only to have to sand it and start over after a topcoat gone wrong. After a few years of painting professionally, I’ve learned that topcoats are often not required.
The best example I have is my $35 Craig’s List dresser that I bought a couple of years ago. It had a glossy, factory finish on it when I purchased it. I stripped and refinished the top with Minwax dark walnut stain and two coats of wipe on poly. I used a deglossing agent on the base to knock down the shine and then applied one coat of Sherwin Williams water based bonding primer and one coat of SW ProClassic, semi-gloss in Creamy. I’ve been in and out of this dresser every day for two years and there is not one ding, scratch or chip in the paint finish. When using a quality primer and paint, a topcoat is unnecessary. Just be gentle with it for about 30 days while the paint cures.
I used a similar primer and paint on my office built-ins – Benjamin Moore’s water bourne Satin Impervo in White with a Zinsser primer coat. I painted it in early January and it’s held up nicely so far.
I knew my kitchen cabinets would take a beating, so I used Zinsser primer and BM oil based Impervo in White. The pain with oil is that it takes a looooong time to dry, but when it finally dries and cures, it provides a very hard, very durable finish. I painted them in June of 2011 and they get abused daily and have held up very well. The paint is rubbing away a little bit on the cabinet under the sink where we keep our garbage can, but wear like that is going to happen with any paint. Well, maybe not the Kevlar impregnated paint used on tanks (I’m certain there is such a thing…)
It may surprise you to know, too, that I do not use a wax topcoat on chair frames that I paint in ASCP. I find it’s not really necessary and it’s a big challenge with all of the curves and crevices (especially with caned furniture.) I didn’t use a top coat on my dining chairs or table base and they have held up great. The pieces are distressed anyway, so additional wear isn’t going to bother me. I used a sanding sponge to smooth out the finish and then buffed the paint with a soft cloth.
I know you want your paint finish to be durable, but sometimes adding a topcoat isn’t necessary. Prep your piece well, use a quality primer and finish with a quality satin or semi-gloss paint and your piece will hold up just fine.
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I love the curtains in the background!!!! Where did you find them???
I made them! Here’s the link… http://missmustardseed.com/2010/07/do-you-really-think-im-mean/
She made them… search curtains on the blog and the tutorial comes up.
When I wrote this Miss Mustard Seed’s reply wasn’t visible to me on the mobile site
I’m so happy you posted this. For years doing my furniture I never used a top coat. Then I started reading other peoples blogs and saw that everyone else seemed to be doing it. I went through the same troubles as you and found that the furniture I had originally painted were still in fantastic shape with out all the fuss!
Tracy
Simply White Vintage
I couldn’t agree more! People get themselves bogged down creating extra steps that aren’t always needed. Great post!
Thanks a bunch for all the wonderful tips…I can sure use them. Hope you are feeling better.
Blessings,
Linda
Thanks for all the tips! I’m getting ready to begin trying my hand at refinishing an old dresser. I need all the advice I can get.
I really love visiting your blog. It’s a fresh breath of spring.
I am keeping every little hint you provide about painting furniture as I am getting ready to paint a 1930′s dining table and 4 chairs which i picked up at a Christian ministry thrift store for $60. I hope to have pics to send you for a Furniture Friday soon!!
Your advice and experience is priceless. Thanks for putting it out there. I am forever a fan!
Thank you for breaking down all the options. I’ve mostly been using chalk paint recently, but good to know about the others. I also have a dining rooms set up in the attic of chairs similar to yours (for my next home – no room for it now) so glad to know how to tackle those. Thank you!
Great tips as always! I love how your kitchen turned out, that’s been on my project list for so long! ~Marcy
Thank you so much. I am painting this weekend and a bit over the top as to what to do with what. Take care-chrissi
Marian, I have noticed with the ASCP though if you paint it directly on the furniture without a primer as they say it can be done- it will scratch paint off with a fingernail if not waxed. Have you had that problem?
And we did our kitchen shelves and beadboard on the walls with a BM kitchen paint- made specifically for kitchens – no primer just that paint and even with scrubbing on some of the beadboard walls – no problems.
tammy
I’ve only had that problem shortly after painting it. I didn’t wax the shleves in my corner cabinets and I’m pulling things in and out of those all the time and it hasn’t been an issue.
Just wondering if what you would do specifically where there will be water dripping on it. I have a dresser that I want to use as a bathroom vanity but I am not sure how to finish the wood so that it will stand up really well. That dresser you did is beautiful!!!
AJ……We put Walnut countertops in my kitchen and used Waterlox brand tongue oil finish to seal the wood. We also used it on our walnut bathroom vanity. It works great!!
I am so glad you wrote this post!!! I am just in the process of painting a shelf for my kitchen.
I decided not to use ASCP because I did not want to bother waxing the whole piece.
It is a shelving unit with trelices??? I don’t know how to say it but it is a nightmare…
So I primed it white and will paint it off-white which is the color of the wall… The shelf doesn’t have a back, it will match perfectly because I did not want something too heavy in that space.
I am so glad to “hear” it will be ok!
The advice here makes me feel more comfortable with going forward with my plans to paint the builder’s grade wood trim in my home that is an obnoxious orangey stain they probably call “honey” something or other. It doesn’t match any of my paint colors as is, so it’s white for the win!
Thanks for the tips..I use them when I have something to paint and they have been very helpful..Have a great weekend..
I have ta dresser almost just like this one with matching night stands. (My husband’s cousin was going to throw them out so I got them for free!! ) The only difference in mine and yours is my middle drawers are not at wide as yours. My husband can’t stand this dresser in it’s current state! He wants me to get rid of it but I really like the antique look and the solidness of it. I was thinking of painting it a creamy white but I didn’t know how it would turn out. I absolutely LOVE yours!! I think I’m going to copy it. My only problem is the top of my dresser looks like some sort of laminate/acrylic type material. I don’t know if yours had the same or not. I would love to send you a picture of it for your advice on how I can get my top to turn out like yours.
This is great info Marian. On the pieces you did in ASCP did you prime the piece first? I did a piece in Paris gray and haven’t had a chance to wax it yet(like 3 months ago) and I have to say I really like it. I like the wax look but find that water or candle rings are not good for a waxed piece.
Oh my gosh, it’s as if you were reading my mind!!! I just found a beautiful dining set on Craiglist and hauled it home last night! I have been scouring your blog trying to figure out how I want to refinish it… ASCP, wax, stain…!? I even thought about emailing you for your opinions. LOL I would have waxed all of the chairs, so this is perfect timing! I am out of my comfort range so this is SO, SO helpful! Thanks, Marian!
I never thought of buffing ASCP without waxing. Thanks for the great tip!!
Amazing advice again, Ive really found that there is a big difference after a just have one question. I painted some tables for a tearoom in Farrow and Ball paints, they are waterbased with a slight sheen. The bases i waxed in clear and dark wax to give aged effect. I knew the tops were going to get a lot of wear so the guy at the store advised i used waterbased satin then dead flat varnish on the tops. I used acrylic craft paint in burnt umber/raw sienna mix to give the effect of the wax. The problem is that my top coats of varnish have gone slightly cloudy in places leaving streaks. What Can I do???
Christina
*meant to say a big difference after the paint has cured!
ok so are you going to pick a winner in the giveaway you had last week?
Great painting tips! I used to paint furniture with hand painted designs on them one of my favorite tips was to use a good primer, love Gripper by Glidden, it is bonded and will stick to even slick surfaces with little or no sanding. I did top coat my pieces where things would be sitting on the surface in order to not mar the hand painting, I used a Valspar product, a non-yellowing clear satin finish used to top coat faux finishing, works great and gives a wonderful smooth protective surface.
I just love all the great information you provide here on your blog, can’t wait to see that book!
Hope you are feeling better!
Hi Marian,
Thanks for the painting tips!
I am sorry to hear you have to have surgery on Tuesday.
We will be thinking and praying for you. My sister has to have the same surgery on Monday,
she has been suffering stomach issues the past year and just finally discovered she has gall stones.
Good Luck! Be sure and take it easy too after your surgery!
Take Care,
Maria
p.s. Congratulations on your book! So excited for you!
I love painting and fauxing furniture. I have tons of pieces in my home. I have had mishaps where I am not happy and start from the beginning. It can be frustrating but in the end I usually wind up happy with the results.
Thanks for the tips, very helpful.
Good luck on Tuesday you will be in my thoughts and prayers.
The waxing part bothered me with chalk paint. Glad to hear it isn’t always necessary. I’ve had non-yellowing top coats go yellow and try to avoid using any.
This is great info. Learning which product to use where and when is half the battle and comes with lots of experience and great posts like this.
Hello MMS! Love your site. You’ve been such a sweet source of inspiration! I wonder if you could tell me what paint/finish would you recommend for a dining table? I could take a picture of it and send to you if you’d like. I picked it up at a yard sale and it needs some work… =)
I REALLY ENJOY YOUR TIPS, AND TUTORIALS ON EVERY SUBJECT. I THINK I HAVE FINALLY MUSTERED THE CONFIDENCE TO SLIPCOVER A ROADSIDE WING CHAIR. THANK YOU FOR THAT VIDEO SERIES AND THESE PAINT TIPS, YOU HAVE BEGUN MOVING MOUNTAINS IN MY HOME!!
This has been on my mind a lot lately (Marian, are you in there somewhere?!) so thanks for this post. I don’t always like the feel of ASCP without wax but like your idea of smoothing out with a sanding sponge and then buffing. I’m going to try that, thanks!
Stephanie
Marian,
First of all, good luck with the surgery! I have been reading your blog for about a year. I may have missed this somewhere . . .
What kind of brush do you use when painting furniture? I’ve just started (I’ve done a chair for my 2-year old,and a dresser and a desk for my 9 year old). I am noticing brush strokes on my finished pieces, and it really bugs me! The desk and chair are a creamy white color. The dresser is black. I REALLY notice it with the black piece. All 3 have been distressed.
I don’t see brush strokes in the pictures of your pieces . . . is it the paint I’m using or the brush that’s the issue?
Thank you for all of the inspiration! I’m looking forward to seeing your book.
Jenn
It could be both. I suggest using a high quality paint brush, like a Purdy, to reduce the appearance of brush strokes. Use long, smooth strokes instead of short ones. If painting a larger piece, use a foam or fine trim roller to further smooth the paint. Also, make sure you’re using a quality paint and primer. It does make a difference and you get what you pay for. You can add an additive to the paint as well, to thin it out and reduce brush marks (Penetrol or Floetrol depending on the type of paint you’re using.) Lastly, make sure you don’t over brush the paint. Putting all of those things together will give you a smooth finish.
Thank you so much! I hope you’re feeling better and recovering well.
Jenn
Ok, so I have a question on this. I’m doing some research on what type of top coat to use on cabinets. I will be painting them in ASCP Old White and Old Ochre. I was going to use her wax as a top coat but then thought about maybe using the her lacquer. Any opinions?
I haven’t used her lacquer product. You’ll have to ask one of the stockists…
Marian,
What if I stencil a name on a little chair white in acrylic paint for my grand-daughter, do I need to paint something over that so the name stays on?
I hope you have made a recovery from your surgery and are feeling like your own,healthy self again!
Karen
How difficult was it to strip the top of your dresser, and what product(s) did you use?
Hello Miss Mustard Seed, I was just wondering about that fantastic lettered rug. I LOOOOOVE it! Is it a DIY or did you buy it? If its a DIY, how did you do it?
thanks for the great post! what is your wall color? i love it!
Hi,
I have painted a desk and chair in the past. The top of the desk, very top of chair and seat of chair all had an issue with the paint rolling up. I thought i used a good primer Kilz and paint, can’t rem. The sides and drawers of desk held up great. Plus no top coat. Do you have any tips for combating that in the future.
Thank you for your time. Love the sight
I’m in the middle of painting my daughter’s bunk beds right now. I was thinking of using SC Johnson’s paste wax to finish. I’m assuming with beating that these will take I should do a topcoat. Will the wax be good enough?
Thanks,
Katie
Marian,
I don’t even know how I stumbled across your tutorial on painting furniture, all I know is that I bought your book, am reading it, and itching to start a project. The project in mind is painting my daughter’s bedroom furniture. It was my husband and my first bedroom suite, and we bought it at an antique store. Well, at some point it became our daughter’s bedroom suite, and by now it’s very scratched up. Here’s the deal: I don’t know the right terminology for things, so please forgive me in my description. The furniture is Duncan Phyfe style and color, and is very glossy. Do I have to sand/strip or do anything like that, or can I just use your Milk paint with primer and paint over it? Please help! Thanks in advance